From Visitors to Caretakers: My Experience at Tres Cruces – Paucartambo, Cusco
High in Paucartambo, where the Andes meet the jungle, there is a lookout point that preserves one of the most enigmatic sunrises in the world:
Tres Cruces . It’s not just a place to take photographs; it’s an experience that blends faith, patience, history, and nature. In this story, I want to share how I went from being a curious visitor to a conscious caretaker, understanding that the magic of Tres Cruces depends not only on the sun that appears, but also on what we carry inside when we contemplate it.
Table of Contents
From what seems simple to what is sacred
The Qénqumayu, a enchanted layq’a river, one of those with a soul,
irrigates the banks of the most beautiful of Cusco’s tambos.
At the gates of Qosñipata, “the valley of smoke,”
Paulartanpu, “Village of Flowers,” still hears songs of love.
Alfonsina Barrionuevo – Cusco Mágico
In June, the festivities in Cusco begin when the rains end.
Of all the activities we experience, climbing Tres Cruces in Paucartambo is a slow-burning experience that’s enjoyable if you know how to wait: the classic “the sun will rise now.”
Visitors’ perspectives vary: some seek to take photos, take home souvenirs, or perhaps experience a connection with nature and the sacred.
The sunrise seen at Tres Cruces is difficult to describe. As we shared with some visitors, one has to see it and experience it to understand the “magic” and beauty of the place.
There isn’t much information about Tres Cruces; we only know from the oral tradition of Paucartambo.
Why does one wait for dawn? What happens if we don’t see it?
Paucartambo
The province of Paucartambo is located in the eastern and far-eastern reaches of the southeastern Andes. It belongs to the department of Cusco and covers an area of 6,115.11 km² (IGN, 1989: 365).
It borders the department of Madre de Dios and the Cusco province of La Convención to the north. To the south and west are the provinces of Calca and Quispicanchis, respectively.
Paucartambo was once occupied by the Pokes, Willas, and Lares tribes. During the Inca era, it belonged to the Antisuyo region and was considered the gateway from the jungle to the capital of Tahuantinsuyo (Cánepa, 1998).
Segundo Villasante mentions that there were a series of Inca expeditions sent by Qhapaq Yupanqui, Yawar Waqaq, and Túpac Yupanqui to the Paucartambo and Pillcopata rivers. Thanks to these expeditions, Mojos, Campas, and Antis were conquered on the banks of the Amaru Mayu, now known as the Madre de Dios River.
During the Spanish invasion, some Incas under the command of Manco Huayllo would have taken refuge in the ultraeastern mountain range, forming the communities of Q’ero, Japo, Kijo, K’allachanca and Marcachea (Villasante, 1980).
Paucartambo was also an important trading center. The construction of the Carlos III Bridge made it a strategic point for the exchange of goods arriving from the jungle, attracting merchants and marking the beginning of modernity.
The bridge is a symbol of identity: during the festival, Mamacha Carmen is carried in procession to bless the four cardinal points.
Today, it remains a link between residents, used both as a pedestrian and as a cultural symbol.
The sun does not fall on everyone
“The more you suffer, the more you see glory.” At Tres Cruces, this saying seems to fit perfectly. The colder it feels at the lookout point, the more beautiful the experience will be. The more the icy wind blows, the warmer the sunrise will seem.
Of all the times I’ve been to Tres Cruces, each one has been beautiful and memorable in its own way. I’ve always heard that you need “luck” to see the sunrise and take “real” photos with the sun. And yes, you really do have to be lucky. Sometimes you just can’t see it because of the fog.
You suffer the cold, invest time, travel, and expectations, and sometimes it all comes down to disappointment: staying up all night to see nothing. Can you imagine?
I remember once we went up with a group of visitors. Upon reaching the checkpoint, it was strange not to feel either the cold or the icy wind. Some were sleepy, others were sick. It was foggy, not a single star could be seen—barely, at times, the moon. We stayed in the car to avoid the cold, but the strange thing was that it wasn’t cold at all. We just waited. In the end, we didn’t see the sunrise.
For many, it was their first time. All of us sitting in silence, amidst the fog, shared the same feeling: sadness, rather than anger.
The lookout guards said we might see something at noon, but it wouldn’t be the same. We went down, discouraged, and I realized that the Tres Cruces sunrise isn’t for everyone.
That day I also learned something: does the value of a place depend solely on the sunrise? It seems that for many it does. But if we ever get to see that sunrise that appears in the photos, we should be grateful for it. I don’t know if it’s luck or just nature.
Respecting the place, leaving it clean, and being grateful should be part of the experience. In Cusco-Paucartambo, you can see unique things, and that should also be taken care of.
Ultimately, Tres Cruces de Oro is a fascinating experience. Your intention and energy are very important for enjoying it. You could bring coca leaves to give thanks, take care of the place, leave no trash, and remember that you’re not alone: other people also seek that connection with the sunrise. Anything goes.
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